A lot of the amps you named are Class D, or switching-type amplifiers.

I have yet to hear a really good sounding one from any manufacturer. I would stick to traditional Class A/B designs.

I suggest that you consider the Musical Fidelity M6i Integrated amplifier, which will put out over 200 watts per channel at 4 ohms. I can guarantee that will float your boat.

Another one that is very good is the Arcam A38.

These amps both have essentailly flawless beautiful sound and will drive pretty much any speaker on the planet with minimal distortion.

Actually, I am quite certain that any amplifier that can put out over 120 watts per channel at 4 ohms can drive your speakers well, but it has to be REAL power, not the kind of mickey-mouse phony ratings that you get from most Japanese manufacturers.

Many amplifiers that CLAIM high power cannot deliver it over the full frequency range OR with both channels fully driven, because their POWER SUPPLIES are inadequate. Also, cheaper amplifiers will deliver power to a resistive load on a test bench but distort when required to drive the complex reactive load of a loudspeaker system.

The bottom line is that power ratings by themselves mean very little; you need to have enough technical knowledge to analyze a lot more than a power rating. That is why Stereophile runs thorough tests on every amplifier it reviews and publishes the results.

Almost any integrated amplifier listed as Class A or B in Recommended Components in the October or April 2013 Stereophile should work well, assuming it has the appropriate power capability.