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I've got to think that whatever a fancy power cord does could be done better by a good AC power conditioner.

I acknowledge power cord and AC source upgrades may make a difference, perhaps a worthwhile one. I'm not yet ready to dive into the black hole of expenditures to find out, when all my equipment has overkill power supplies (though I understand this may not matter). I still have a hard time believing that the cord can matter that much when all the upstream ac delivery is of no higher quality. But my ears could convince me otherwise.

When I can afford Levinsons, Wilson X-1s, etc, I'll think about it. Until then, the money is better spent on music.

The AirTight preamp has a Siltech power cable hard-wired into the internal power input. Now I can't muck about with it any more, but then again what more gain could there be? The whole power inlet plug arrangement is removed. We're straight from the P-300 to the electronics! Upstream from the wall is Kimber power cable to the (dedicated) breaker box for the two-channel, primarily tube, analog system.

I have bigger fish to fry first.

Van den Hul power cord to my amplifier. Significant positive improvement to sound. Will do more in future.

A non-believer, I tried a $100 power cord and was surprised how much of a difference it made. Not that it was "better", just different!! So I began to experiment with a couple of "cheap" ($60-$120) cords and kept them.

PSAudio A/C outlet -- don't know if it changed the sound any, but i feel better about 20amps of juice flowing thru IT than thru the $1.19 standard issue outlet.

PS Audio Lab Cable

I upgraded my DAC power cord to a Synergistic AC Master Coupler and plan on modifying captive cords by adding tinned copper braid shielding, grounded at one end.

Although Linn discourages the use of power cords other than their own, I tried out a pair each of WireWorld's Stratus, Aurora, and Electra cords on my Linn Majik and LK 100. The Auroras made the biggest difference giving better dynamics and a much quieter background. For less than $600 Cdn, I am now listening to a way better system!

Yep. Upgraded wall sockets, bought after-market cords, and good old ferrite rings. Easy to hear the difference quality makes in my system.

I like to mod my equipment and have found that modding the power supply seems to have as much, if not more, of an impact on sonics than anything else. So, of course I have built power supply filters and upgraded power cords. With DIY versions shielding seems to play a very important role, as do clean high-quality connections. Remember, (in a very simplified sense) amplifiers use the signal as a pattern and actually modify the AC power coming in to match the pattern of this signal. So having clean incoming power is truly an important goal. Enjoy.

I can find no engineering justification for upgraded power cords. Can someone give me an engneering justification why I would want to do this? I know. You can hear it. No justification necessary.

Got some contact cleaner, cleaned the prongs and pluged it back in. You can here the differentiate (NOT)

No mod. Just put ferrite RF choke over the power cord.

I have yet to upgrade the powercords on my system. I have read reviews and debates that stand on both sides of the fence. For myself auditioning a few powercords of intrest on my system will be the only viable solution for me. If I find results that meet my expectations and are worth my dollar I will upgrade, if not than i will leave well enough alone.

On some of my power cords I placed ferrites. The split cylinders of ferrites in a plasic case that opens, goes around the cord and then closes. I got them for free, so I figure, why not, can't hurt.

The PS Audio power cords(Mini Lab)seemed to be a good match with the Roksan integrated and CD player.

I ditched the power cord that came with my Ultech CD player and purhased an Audience power cord a few years ago. I had my Yamaha DSP-A3090 integrated amp modified so I could upgrade the power cord. On both accounts I noticed a significant upgrading of the sound, e.g. more detail and air.

Putting a $600 powercord on a $1000 amplifier is totally insane, but who says audiophiles are sane!

Usually the factory cables suffice.

I changed to an NBA professional power cord, it's great

You bet! RF-Stoppers are essential to get rid of the Clintons (nickname for unwanted, annoying noise)

I bought power cords from Russ Andrews in Britain. Basically Kimber Cable. Fantastic!

Don't believe the power cords in my Crown Macro Reference can be replaced.

i had a specialist make DIY power cords for all my electronics (much cheaper than branded cables-tho I use a Harm Tech as well- and as good). i even modded my old CDP to fit in an IEC male so that i could use after market cables! the quality of my OEM cables is quite pathetic and quality of power supply where i live even worse. hence the difference has been quite remarkable, in clarity, bass definition and control and quiteness of the backdrop.

Everytime you cut og bad things you alts

I believe that a high performance sportscar (let's say a Ferrari) is, in a way, just like a high performance audio system. The 360 Modena will run and function normally with poor fuel, right? But oh, when you're running on 98 oct unleaded super, the engine starts to breath freely and revs like a dream! Same thing with hi-fi, and don't forget proper and correct grounding. Thank You!

Substituted all standard mains cables with Kimber Hi-current, all run from a noise-cancelling distribution block, istelf wired internally with Kimber high-current and manufactured for UK Kimber agent Russ Andrews.