David Harper
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bi amp
David Harper
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David Harper wrote:

I've never experienced a topic which involves as much misinformation and contradictory opinion as the subject of bi-amping speakers. The owners manual for my Denon AVR states; "bi-amping the front speakers using the back surround amplifier outputs will MORE THAN DOUBLE the amount of power delivered to each speaker because the individual drivers present a simpler, lower load impedance to the amps." Also,bi-amping in this way will reduce distortion because "this connection enables back EMF (power returned without being output)from the woofer to flow into the tweeter without affecting the sound quality, resulting in a cleaner higher quality sound. On other forums I've been angrily told that I'm wrong because I'm still just using the same amp(in the Denon) so I'm not really bi-amping at all. I called Denon tech support, and I was told that I am bi-amping because the AVR containes 7 discreet amplifiers, and each one puts out "80 watts continuous rms per channel,all channels driven,into 8 ohms,from 20-20,000 hz <0.05% thd. Also "the passive crossovers in the speakers result in a high impedance being presented below the Pass frequency for the tweeter, and a high impedance being presented above the pass frequency for the woofer, so that the amplifiers waste virtually no power trying to drive low frequencies into the tweeter and high frequencies into the woofer. Also, it was pointed out to me that if I was using the same amplifier(in the Denon) to do this, I would immediately cause a direct short, and the reciever would shut down in "protection mode". I do think I hear a difference in the sound. It sounds more transparent to me, and more "effortless" if that makes sense. I'm going to call Denon back on monday and find out exactly what happens in my AVR and my speakers when I do this.

David Harper
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oops

Catch22
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What part is confusing you?

Kal Rubinson
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This has been discussed in lots of places and you cannot expect anything new here. You have to decide whom to trust.

I will say that it is impossible for the passive bi-amping to deliver more than double power and it is more likely to deliver significantly less than double the power.

Also, if done properly, it will NOT cause a direct short. That only happens if the user stupidly leaves the speaker terminal jumpers in place.

Your move.

David Harper
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Kal, I will say that it is possible for bi-amping to deliver at least twice the power. What I want to know(from someone who actually knows what they are talking about), is what happens to the impedances and the power delivered in the case of bi-amping from a single AVR reciever which features 7 separate discrete power amplifiers. I'm going to ask a Denon engineer this question this week, and then I'll post his reply, and you can read it and learn something.

wkhanna
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David Harper wrote:

Kal..... you can read it and learn something.

Kal Rubinson
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I would be happy to read it but it would not be a surprise if it was incorrect. Manufacturers are no more informed or educated than others and some are biased in their own self-interest. I hope otherwise.

As for your statement, it is possible for biamping to deliver twice the power under relatively stringent conditions. However, it cannot deliver more than twice unless the speaker is constructed with such deviousness that it would be regarded as faulty if used normally.

jgossman
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David,

You so far have been a welcome addition to this little world know as the Stereophile forum. However, Kal Rubinson is well, Kal Rubinson. He's not just know in the audio business by those of us who have called this a hobby for our entire adult lives for his opinions, he's known for his technical muster.

The only way that amp, regardless of what Denon says, can provide double the output into a load by using both sets of output's, is if each output has it's own equal and discrete power supply OR a discrete regulated power supply large enough to supply it's load (the amplifiers) without going into thermal shutdown, assuming the engineer has installed a thermal sensor on the heatsink or regulator. Now, because it's called Ohms law, not Ohm's really swell idea, up to 4 volts for full output at each load rated up to 80 watts into 4 ohms nominal, would require 80 amps reserve current - regulated. That means a 10000 W power transformer and requisitly robust regulator chips or valves, and huge filter caps. Now, while you could build such a power supply - even with the best quietest mil-spec valve or or silicon diodes, you're talking about a cost prohibitive solution for such an amp, save class D operation, and probably more than a little noisy, and probably have a tendency to put EMF back into the line supply negatively affecting your other components.

Because of this, power amplifier's output sections (save for SOME class A amplifiers, where regulated can work and indeed be preferrable because the load that the power supply sees is - once the valves achieve operating temp - is invariable) are usually filtered, unregulated supplys. What this means is that, all from a single and in the case of Denon probably ample transformer, the power supply is probably rated to provide as little as 125 - 150% of the current a single channel requires to deliver the rated output, continuous at a benign frequency, say 1000hz. So what does this mean? This means that 2 channels driven MAY provide about 75% 80 watts into the nominal load, and 4 channels about 38% rated output. That's terrible! you might think? No not really. Most speakers will shake your walls at about 2 volts output provided adequate current delivery. You'll likely not hear powersupply sagging under normal conditions. The 1812 Overture with electrostatic midrange/tweater, that's a different story. James Taylor or AC/DC with modern 4-16 Ohm - 89-92db/m @ 2volt, you'll be just fine. Because at that amplifier price point, the engineers will have a fairly NARROW design objective which is, counter intuitively, to drive MOST modern speaker systems, under MOST conditions, with acceptably low distortion, usually under 2% under FULL load all FRONT channels driven. You can't really hear anything short of gross, say 3% or greater distortion in the rear channels. I don't care what anyone says. So take distortion claims with a grain of salt. Because most class A/B output stages, tube or solid state, don't start distorting audibly until a fair amount of power supply sag occurs. That's not to say it's not important. It's just not as important as some manufactures would claim. What's important in that regard is does the distortion kind of work in a musical fashion, like the "distortion" of a Steinway soundboard, or make you run for the hills, like the "distortion" of the top plate of a cheap fiddle.

Where you are likely to see improvement is that, using acceptably low capacitance cables as to not accidentally create a LF filter, you are halving the line resistance of each amplifier being loaded down - assuming you are using the same cables top and bottom. And this isn't unimportant. Also, cables DO sound different - every cable is an LCR network. And sometimes you may find great results mixing cables. I use Kimber Kable on the bottom and Wasatch on the top. Biwired through outputs A and B of a fairly inexpensive Cambridge integrated. And it's really fantastic.

I don't think anyone here would question your trying to get to the technical gestalt of why something might sound how it does or work best - but remember Denon is there to sell you on Denon. And that's just fine, excellent in fact. They make good gear. But unless your power supply comes in a seperate box for power transformer, a box for regulators, and a box for capacitors, I'm leary of that claim. Also not considered in this post is the overhead to power the control circuitry, the likely class a preamp secions, and the processing sections - all likely drawing a fairly high consumption 3-24 volt regulated supply from the SAME transformer.

You ARE bi-amping. That's a fact. You are not going to get appreciably better results unless you have extremely power hungry speakers than bi-wiring from a single very high quality set of stereo outputs. To get that qualitative difference you should look into getting a seperate pair of power amps of equal or better quality.

David Harper
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I spoke for half an hour to a Denon engineer today,(the regular customer support tech was unable to answer my questions) He said this;
1- Provided I have accessed (from within the receivers menu options), the "amp assign" menu, selected it, and then clicked on "bi-amp", then connected two separate pairs of amp output channels(the front r/l, and the "back surround" r/l, I am, in fact bi-amping the speakers.
2-because the receiver(Denon AVR X 1100 W) features 7 separate, discrete power amplifier output channels, each of which delivers 80 watts independently of the output(or lack thereof)of the other six,I am, in fact, now delivering 80+80 watts to each speaker.
3-the crossovers in the speakers(Polk Rtia5's) are more qualified to deliver the appropriate frequencies, with the appropriate slopes,to the individual drivers than is some yo-yo whos manipulating the frequencies with an external crossover.

Kal Rubinson
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1. This statement is correct.
2. This statement is simplistic and indicates shallow understanding. Due to the spectral distribution of power in music, you will never get double the power.
3. He is right if you agree that the user is a yo-yo.

David Harper
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Kal, I didn't mean to offend. I'm a reactionary. Truth is, my approach to bi-amping does not seem to have resulted in any significant improvement in the sound, but I enjoy experimenting.This subject inspires a lot of fear-biting. Its a term dog trainers use. I suspect that "true" bi-amping doesn't result in any significant improvement either. I've got new speakers, Polk Rtia5's, and I'm still getting used to them. Isn't this hobby great? It's like arguing about religion. People are absolutely convinced of things which have no basis in objective fact. Like for instance, that an expensive high end speaker wire "sounds better"than a less expensive wire.

Kal Rubinson
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As you can see from my original post, I was not intending to get into a discussion on the performance advantages/disadvantages of passive biamping and just wanted to address technical issues.

Your approach is the best one: Just try it. However, I will say that active biamping can make improvements but it is generally not something the average user can implement properly.

David Harper
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Kal,
I have to man-up here; you were right, I was wrong. I did some more research on my receiver and crunched some numbers. There's no way it can possibly put out 80watts x 7(channels) even though that IS what it's advertised to do. It would have to weigh 50 lbs. A long time ago I owned an SAE power amp which actually did put out 300 watts per channel. It was so heavy you could hardly pick it up. I'm still determined to find out(from Denon) what the hell the power spec is supposed to mean. It states that my receiver features "7 power amps" which put put "80 watts.rms,per channel, 20-20,000hz,<0.05thd. Im only using two amp outputs(or four, in the bi-amp mode,whatever that can mean)because I just listen to stereo. So it's still a good receiver.

tmsorosk
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Good receiver ? well lets not go that far.

David Harper
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This AVR has a total power output capacity of, get this, 1225 wattsrms. A best-buy tech showed me a diagram of it. It has a new class of power amp. "D3" Go to Pioneers website and look at the SC-81 AVR. And incredibly, each amp output channel actually does deliver 80 watts, independently of the other six!

jgossman
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The only way a fairly standard AVR power supply would deliver that rated power is with the possibility of class D amplification? Where did I read that? Oh 5 or so post previous.

/eye roll

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