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Only improvement in sound was when replacing a popped one did the sound be noticalbly better over the one it replaced.

ROFLMAO

sweet

Knowledgeable? Perceptive? Gulliable? Delusional? And mostly just mislead and primed to hear something, cus' of being led to thinking by the marketeers of the nonsense, that you will hear something. How on earth does lifting wires off of carpet do anything AUDIBLE? think about what is being claimed? I don't think MF even hears that does he? do you really think if you didn't see those wires lifted you would hear something different, be honest. Green ink...oh yeah....Why Mapingo, why not Myrtle wood, with that special burned in swirl of authenticity. Why at live recording events are teh wires laying all over the floor, being walked on, nothing elevated, and this is the SOURCE, but when your playback, the wires need lifting? do you realize how incredibly dopey this idea is? Do you know the difference between a "hospital" grade wiring device and just residential grade or commerical duty? you know, there is no sound in a residential grade for less than $1 or a hospital grade that could be $30. do you know why they are this different? Why hospital rated is in fact a NEMA rating, while the scammer that sell "audio grade" wall devices are utter nonsense, cus' there ain't no NEMA class of "audio" wiring devices. If you have the $1 Leviton it will sound no different than any other class of wall device. Knowledegable and perceptive? I always like the ones who can hear the difference between brands, P&S sounds!!! btter than a Hubbell, that's a hoot! The AC line cord routine is another hoot.

DUP, it's clear you don't believe that one can achieve audible sonic benefits from upgrading fuses. Thanks for your opinion.

Please don't condemn others for holding different beliefs.

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DUP, it's clear you don't believe that one can achieve audible sonic benefits from upgrading fuses. Thanks for your opinion.

Please don't condemn others for holding different beliefs.

You must be a Virgo.

I'm a Virgo.

And I know why the fuses do what they do. I've been working with the aspects of what goes on at that level, for many years now.

I've been upping the value of fuses in gear I modify, as standard stock enterprise, for about 20 years, now.

It is a question of peak 'current limiting' or blunting' on transients.

Current. It is also 'rate of flow', or, the 'delta' of the flow.

Micro transients are 'fast', or conversely, have a high 'delta'.

The smaller value or cheap fuse, has a longer and slower 'melt range'. Fuses work on the flow rate of current.

OK.

5 amp fuse.

At 4.9 amps it lets go in 1 second

At 5 amps it lets go in 0.5 seconds

At 5.5 amps it lets go in 0.25 seconds

At 6.0 amps it lets go in 0.15 seconds.

At 6.5 amps it lets go in 0.1 seconds

It lets go at 5 seconds at 4.85 amps.

At 4.75 amps, it lets go at..it doesn't let go at all. The current stays below the resistance and melt range.

None of this is exactly true, I'm just giving an idea of what goes on.

Now...the funky expensive high end fuse.

At 4.85amps, it never lets go.

At 4.9 amps, it sometimes lets go, or runs forever.

At 4.95 amps, it lets go at 5 seconds, on average.

At 5.0 amps, it lets go at 2 seconds

At 5.5 amps, it lets go in .5 seconds

At 6 amps, it lets go in 0.1 seconds

At 6.5 amps,it lets go in 0.1 seconds.

If you look closely, you will see that the cheap fuse has a larger current throughput range that affects the metals (internal fuse wire) with thermal build up. This means it has a larger 'range' that it affects the overall current flow through the amplifier.

The higher priced material in the better fuse has a shorter melt range in both thermal and current aspects.

It's basically a type of solder, or thermal wire. Like solder with given temperature melt ranges. In this case, it is the buildup of resistance in the material.

Considering the expense of these passive devices, it would be nice if it was possible to build a CSA or UL approvable relay type interrupt, instead of dealing with a fuse.

I have a habit of jamming larger value fuses in MY OWN PERSONAL GEAR. I do not recommend this to folks, no sir! not a chance.

For example, I've had amplifiers so freaking modified, that I put a steel bar in the fuse holder and rely on the circuit breaker in the fuse panel to do the fusing work. Otherwise the amplifier would constantly blow 15 and 20 amp fuses at turn on.

The point is, that 'transient current blunting' is a real issue, as if any of you paid attention to my post on why digital doesn't work, it due to the way the human ear hears. We hear the positive leading edges of transients, and the volume of them with respect to one another and the timing between them. The rest of the signal, the ear virtually ignores. Ie, we ignore about 80-90% of the signal. That tiny stuff we do listen to, represents 100% of what we hear. It just happens to be the components of the given signal that are the MOST affected by the fuse. As for showing up in measurements, the measurements are going to be stock, standard electrical theory 'linear-whole signal' measurements..and by their very definition, are going to largely miss the components that the ear is paying attention to.

In the same way that the human decoding engine can hear only the one voice in the crowd of 100, the machine we measure with hears all 100 people at the same time. To top it off, it is incapable of decoding the stressing in the one voice, which the ear/brain does hear.

We, as human machines, are capable of performing these amazing feats. A couple of linear measurements done on a piece of gear with incorrect weighting and resolution - doesn't have a hope in hell of competing with that.

Thus, we end up hearing these fuses. Any fuses. But it defies the general engineering measurement methods.

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Thus, we end up hearing these fuses. Any fuses. But it defies the general engineering measurement methods.

Which is precisely what makes this hobby so fascinating.

And why I maintain that electricity is weird.

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