Wow, no burn in time?

You're going to piss of both the objectivists and the subjectivists!

Cheers. Glad you are happy.

I've been interest in them for a while. I toyed around with the idea of changing the fuses in my Threshold Stasis S550e amp but since it has four it would be a bit expensive for an experiment. Then I thought ordering them for my preamp, but fell victim to the same "I don't want to dismantle my whole system" feelings.

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I'd give it a 5% boost to my overall enjoyment, which for a $2700 amp is about .01% of the cost- not a bad ratio. l:

I replaced the bog-standard el cheapo fuses in my amp of similar quality with standard $1 ceramic fuses. I too got about a 5% improvement - noticeable but not quite remarkable. I think I'll stick with these and leave the silver-wired Tuning fuses for another day.

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I replaced the bog-standard el cheapo fuses in my amp of similar quality with standard $1 ceramic fuses.

Great idea! While I know enough people that have been impressed with the specialty fuses, I have not been able to get myself to spend the money on them to try. I can easily talk myself into ceramic fuses however.

Do the audio quality fuses come in both AC and DC versions?
I have noticed that the high buck audio fuses I have seen have a polarity to them. Since audio signals are A.C. in nature and have no polarity what is the effect when the fuses are installed backward? (yes, I know that I just stated that there is no backwards). Should two fuses be installed in parallel, one in each direction?

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Since audio signals are A.C. in nature and have no polarity what is the effect when the fuses are installed backward?

What is the effect? To confuse people who don't understand that direction is irrelevant with AC signals. And why would they want to confuse people? Because then they can make all sorts of other unfounded nonsense claims.

--Ethan

My power amplifier is so modded out it tends to snap the circuit breaker at times..and it uses a hand selected 15 amp to 20 amp slow-blow fuse. I keep putting them in until I get one that doesn't pop.

Sometimes I run it with a steel bar instead of a fuse-I let the circuit breaker serve as a fuse as it's at that point anyway.... That sounds the best, by far. Much smoother, dynamic, sweet, and faster, open, spacious...and..relaxed.

I also build my own fuses. I have a feeling that they are on par or better than the 'audiophile' fuses out there (but I'll have to test that theory). Some of us are crazy that way...

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Why not pure heavy gauge copper? Much better conductivity and more like your wiring up to that point.

Maybe this could be a business opportunity! Take some .25" copper bar stock and cut it up into 1.25" lengths (size of a 3AG fuse). For those going for removing that last veil to true transparency, gold-plated silver bar stock could be used. Could probably sell those suckers for at least $100 each! Of course the warranty for these devices would have to be very carefully worded...

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Why not pure heavy gauge copper? Much better conductivity and more like your wiring up to that point.

Maybe this could be a business opportunity! Take some .25" copper bar stock and cut it up into 1.25" lengths (size of a 3AG fuse). For those going for removing that last veil to true transparency, gold-plated silver bar stock could be used. Could probably sell those suckers for at least $100 each! Of course the warranty for these devices would have to be very carefully worded...

Yeah!

Screw Hi Fi fuses, let's get with Hi Fi fuse bypasses.

Audiophiles don't need no stinkin' fuses - we like to listen dangerously.

Solid silver, no less.

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Audiophiles don't need no stinkin' fuses - we like to listen dangerously.

Hell yeah! We eschew convenience for the sake of fidelity - why not give up safety too!

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Audiophiles don't need no stinkin' fuses - we like to listen dangerously.

Hell yeah! We eschew convenience for the sake of fidelity - why not give up safety too!

That's the spirit!

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"Sometimes I run it with a steel bar instead of a fuse"

Why not pure heavy gauge copper? Much better conductivity and more like your wiring up to that point.

It's all I had lying about, so in it went. Much better, like getting that heavy weight off your foot. It's all good.

We'll worry about quality later. In the meantime the pain of bad sound is gone.

I mean, I've had transistors short out in the amp before..and that..with a fuse..and it just keeps on going. Caps explode..and the amp just keeps on going. That's all with a fuse in place..so swapping it out to a metal bar is obviously not changing much. I can't really sell the amp to anyone either. "Audio Bombs" are not good things to have as power amps for most folks, but hey, it tends to sound best..so I go that way.

Think of it as a 3.5" 12 ga magnum shotgun, with a 3 oz trigger and the trigger guard cut away. A 750 w/pc into 4 ohm close quarters fighting weapon..with that room clearing power that you need.

When I turn the amp on, the lights dim, UPS's turn on and off...The amp stands up..puts a round in the chamber...and shakes the shotgun at the poor speakers..which start to get sweat on their little brows....and they look to the preamp..which has the amp by the balls..and ask it to not squeeze too hard. The amp might get upset and blow their little heads off. I walk up and tell the preamp..'you go louder'..and it says,..'uhm..er, ok..whatever you want'..and gently squeezes the amp's balls..the amp gets upset and cracks the little woofers across the skull with the butt..they scream....I respond by letting off on the preamp a bit..and we go round and round.

There you go. A very technical description on how audio systems work.