Cambridge Azur 851A integrated amplifier Specifications

Sidebar 1: Specifications

Description: Solid-state integrated amplifier. Audio inputs: 2 balanced (XLR); 8 unbalanced, line level (RCA). Audio outputs: Preamp, Record. Tone control (shelving type): maximum bass boost/cut, ±10dB at 10Hz; maximum treble boost/cut, ±7.5dB at 20kHz. Power output: 120W into 8 ohms (20.8dBW), 200W into 4 ohms (20dBW). THD (unweighted at 80% of rated power): <0.001%, 1kHz; <0.01%, 20Hz–20kHz. Frequency response: 10Hz–50kHz, ±1dB. Signal/noise: >93dB, ref. 1W/8 ohms. Input impedance: Inputs 1 and 2 (balanced), 20k ohms. Inputs 1–7 (unbalanced), 20k ohms; Record, 20k ohms. Power amp damping factor: >110 at 1kHz. Power consumption: 800W maximum, 70W minimum (active, no signal), <0.5W (standby).
Dimensions: 16.8" (430mm) W by 4.5" (115mm) H by 15" (385mm) D. Weight: 33 lbs (15kg).
Finishes: Silver, Black.
Serial number of unit reviewed: FE C10427K 1205 0137.
Price: $1900. Approximate number of dealers: 220.
Manufacturer: Cambridge Audio, Gallery Court, Hankey Place, London SE1 4BB, UK. Web: US distributor: Audio Plus Services, 156 Lawrence Paquette Industrial Drive, Champlain, NY 12919. Tel: (800) 663-9352. Web:

Cambridge Audio
US distributor: Audio Plus Services
156 Lawrence Paquette Industrial Drive
Champlain, NY 12919
(800) 663-9352

iosiP's picture

I mean, the first sample did not work, the second had problems in the right channel. And these are samples send to reviewers, not purchased by the unsuspecting customer.
I know they are making them in China but for close to $2k I certainly expect better QC!

Erik's picture

I've been wanting to demo this amp for a while and this didn't change that one bit!

Totally get what you say about texture and color, and from one junkie to another, you should have a look at the Hegel H80. Never mind the built in DAC, the amp gels superbly with the Rega in apodizing mode.

BaTou069's picture

Hello Herb,
Great Review! You mentioned the Rogue Audio Sphinx as Associated Equipment but didn't write a word of comparison. I find this comparison rather interesting, both integrated being fully analog, almost same price range, but different approach. Could you fill in? Thanks's picture

One blew up, one had other major problems. Makes me want to stay away from the whole company. Consumers dont have test gear, we sort of have to hope that things work..... Can you imagine what a hassle the dealer would give you if you tried to return a product saying the right channel sounds distorted? Its great that stereophile can find these faults with measurements, but that does little for the average consumer who just got screwed. Terrible. All cambridge product are off my list

damir's picture

My Cambridge Audio 840C cd player died twice.

First fix cost me 700 USD.

A year later, it failed, the same way it failed the first time!

I gave up on Cambridge Audio, although that DAC was really doing magic while it worked.

Same thing I can say about NAD C370... had two of them bridged... both died the same way.

Right now, I'm on NAD m51 and m3... fingers crossed master series will last longer.

corrective_unconscious's picture

What problem was that exactly that happened twice to the CD player? It was out of warranty and you repaired a $1200 to $1500 component for $700.... What shop or dealer handled the $700 repair? I assume you contacted the same people when it happened the second time...whether out of the repair warranty period or not.

damir's picture

Yes, it was just out of warranty, I paid for the fix. I liked the sound and several digital inputs it offered.

There is a loud noise coming from the left channel when you first turn on the CD player. Turn off, turn on, turn off... let it warm up and after some time the *loud* white noise stops and you can start using it.

They replaced the complete motherboard the first time.

A year later, it happened again. I am not going to spend 700 USD again to fix it.

Cambridge Audio - never again.

corrective_unconscious's picture

It was about a $1200 component, at least two years old, which means depreciated to about $600 or $700, and you spent $700 to get it fixed.

There's a first time for everything. I wouldn't use the phrase "motherboard" for a CD player, personally. What board? A power supply board? A digital chip board? What were the symptoms of this failure? It made funny noises but after warmup you could use it normally?

What dealer did the repair? What did they say when the exact same "motherboard" problem re occurred? Didn't you complain to the dealer and to the manufacturer after the expensive repair failed in the same way? What did they have to say for themselves?

I found a nice image of the guts (C rev.) for us to look at:

mendaily DOT com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12 FORWARD SLASH Cambridge-Audio-Azur-851C-Inside DOT jpg

damir's picture

I don't understand what is confusing you. I did not want to buy a new one, I fixed the old one.

They changed the complete *motherboard* with DAC, CPU's, condensators, external connectors, everything.

What dealer? The one that represents cambridge audio and sells the CD player.

Why would I complain again? What could they say? It lasted for a bit over a year and died just like it did the first time.

I wrote in the previous message, it had loud white noise going on a left channel, until it warmed up.

Here is the photo of the motherboard:

FlyhiG's picture

Your report mirrors my experience with CA products. Great sound nice features but not reliable aa one would expect. Sold by the better stores, so not inexpensive. Just too many other makers for me to take a chance on CA gear again.

mrd745_2000's picture

In many stereophile articles you mention where the product is made. I suggest you mention it for every product. I have had bad luck with made in china products. The manufacturers seem to think this is acceptable since they provide us with a short warranty period. I disagree. This gear cost a lot of money. We should get a reliable product that should last for years. But I have made my choice. If I cannot afford a north american or european product I will buy something used or wait. Manufacturers comments that they monitor quality contol or own the factory are meaningless. No more made in China for me.

Sugarbear66's picture

OK I got mine in 2012 and LOVED it, by 2014 it was randomly turning off and weird volume knob issues. (turning it down turned it up) so I had to use remote but, that was fine. But, the turning off got worse and so 6 weeks of a repair later it came back working great and now it's 2016 I'm sending it back again for repair. I've finally lost patience with it, I love the way it sounds, I love the aesthetics of it, it's a 2k integrated but, I had to break up with it. I Just installed a Rogue Audio Sphinx v2 in my rig to replace it during the 851 repair and it's a dream. Maybe I got a lemon 851a. But, no matter my love for the Cambridge it the quirkiness did me in in the end. Happy with my Rogue.

allhifi's picture

SB66: Good call.

I have a 840E preamp -great piece, but damn the under-spec'd resistor/relay 'volume attenuation' (that constantly overheats -at high attenuation- causing hi-fi buff's to fear losing their prized kit. i.e. the up/down/runaway volume).

I understand completely the frustration, however, I've not given up on my beloved 840E (pre-amp); believing I can find a suitable (much higher quality/power/heat-dissipation resistor-relay 'board' (or necessary parts).

To think that CA couldn't fix that what plagued the 8-400 series (6-10 years on -in the 8-500 series is both laughable -and sad. For, as you say, CA otherwise has shown it can make some impressive kit.

Go figure,


allhifi's picture

Hey Frems: Solid review. Cambridge Audio has some fine product; the 851A reviewed case in point.

A few years back I also stumbled, fortuitously it proved, on a CA product; 840E preamplifier. One heck of a pre -a rare (musical) treat.

Then, as now it appears, CA has both some impressive engineering/listening 'chops', but also some glaring faux pas; the 840E's resistor/relay volume attenuation used under-spec'd (power/heat) resistors tat result in 'runaway/ shorting' volume level -replete with accompanying pops, crackles ... hellish fear -of our beloved hifi (amps/speakers).

I, as you, agree:

" ... My only caveats concern its .... nice little plastic tone controls, one of which got stuck and stopped working ...hermetically sealed, military-spec pots and switches? If they work in an F16, they'll surely outlast all these fashionable, programmable, namby-pamby, chip-based interfaces."

I'd add; dispense with those ridiculous "tone" controls altogether. And return to using a higher-spec'd resistor/relay volume implementation.

If only CA could rid themselves of a few of these glaring mis-steps, they'd have a stunning, high-performance, high-value offering that would satisfy audiophile's (rightful) expectations.

peter jasz