Gramophone Dreams #92: Technics SL-1300G record player

Like romance or car racing, the act of playing records is tactile by design. Like drifting through curves or making out, spinning vinyl is a learned skill that requires users to touch everything with practiced assurance.

To play a disc with Technics' new SL-1300G record player means pushing its round On button, then touching one or more of its rectangular speed selector buttons, then pushing the big square [Start:Stop] button, then unclamping the tonearm and using its cue lever to raise it up.

Next comes the part where my heart beats a little faster: using the headshell's fingerlift to position the arm over the disc and lower it into a groove.

When the needle contacts the groove, the whole system kicks in and sound comes out. Every time I repeat this pulse-raising arm-cueing ritual, which I've been practicing since 1956, I can feel in my hands the material and engineering quality of the whole record-playing machine. I'm 75, so 68 years playing as many as 500 records per year results in my having experienced at least 34,000 intimate turntable encounters. That's what I call a friend with benefits. And a long-term relationship.

Speaking of long-term relationships, I've owned multiple Technics SL-1200s, using one for more than a decade. I still had it when I reviewed the Technics SL-1200GAE in 2016, and I am currently living with Technics' SL-1300G ($3299) and it's begging to move in. The direct drive SL-1300G is the latest addition to what Technics calls its fourth-generation record players (footnote 1).

Technics' first generation of direct drives began in 1970 and included the SP-10 and the SL-1100. Technics' second generation, which added quartz-locked speed control, was labeled Mk.II. It included the SP-10 Mk.II and the biggest-selling turntable of all time: the SL-1200 Mk.II. The third generation began in 2016 with the SL-1200GAE/G and employed all new closer-tolerance tooling for every part. It also introduced a new coreless motor with digital speed control, which Technics says eliminated the cogging issue. Technics' fourth generation began last year with the introduction of the $2199 SL-1200GR2, and now the SL-1300G, which I will be discussing in this month's Dreams.

"Hi-fi styling"
Incorporating features from the other fourth-generation turntables, the Technics SL-1300G represents a crossbreeding of the 'GR2 and the 'G (with a little SL-1000R thrown in for good measure). The result is a domesticated 1200G and a sonically upgraded 1200GR2. The 1300G uses the same triple-layered platter as the 1200G, and an "improved" version of the 1200G's twin-rotor, nine-stator motor. This means the 1300G's motor delivers the same amount of torque as the classic SP-10 Mk.II in a very un–DJ-looking package.

Technics' gentle-speaking, good-explaining business development manager Bill Voss describes the 1300G as their "Styling model." He said the 1200GR2 and 1200G are "DJ Styled" while the 1300G is "Hi-Fi Styled," which means it lost the pitch control, the strobe, the cueing light, and the 45rpm adapter. They are also distinguished by being divided into two categories: one that Technics calls "DJ Design," which includes the flagship SL-1200G, the SL-1200GR2, and the SL-1200MK7, and the "Hi-Fi Design" group topped by the SL-1000R, just below which is the SL-1300G, and below that the SL-1500C.

On the 1300G, the motor is bolted directly to its thick die-cast aluminum plinth, which in turn is attached to a rubber base, making it a two-layer chassis like the 'GR2, as opposed to the 1200G, which employs a four-layer plinth. These plinth and platter differences are evidenced by the fact that the 1200GR2 weighs 25.35lb, the 1300G weighs 30lb, and the 1200G weighs 42lb. The 1200G's extra weight is due to its heavier bottom cover and two layers of internal damping. Similarly, while the 'GR2's platter weighs 5.5lb, the 1300G's brass-topped diecast aluminum platter weighed 7.93lb on my bathroom scale.

In a text, Bill Voss asked me to not take the review sample apart. To which I gladly consented. I knew in advance: I could not reassemble the 1300G with the same level balance and fine tuning as Panasonic's skilled workers using specialized high-precision equipment.

Fortunately, Fernando Zorrilla of Technics super dealer SkyFi Audio had already taken it apart for me. Cool man Fernando's riveting 43-minute YouTube video (footnote 2) documents his "deep dive" into the SL-1300G. He completely disassembles a SL-1200G, a SL-1200GR2, and the new SL-1300G, comparing these decks side by side, part by part on his workbench. This video, plus the 1300G's owner's manual (footnote 3), answered every question I had (except ones about the tonearm; see later).

Technics' new motor
At a promo demo at Panasonic's Newark, New Jersey, headquarters, Bill Voss explained how these fourth-generation products are distinguished by their use of Technics' "delta-sigma drive system" and an upgraded multistage power supply. According to Mr. Voss, the 1300G employs a revised version of Technics' coreless direct drive motor. Between this motor's twin rotors is a circuit board supporting nine triangular stator coils. The 1300's circuit board has been upgraded (over the 1200G's) to a new double-sided board with a "reinforced pattern to improve the coil-mounting rigidity." This is important trickle-down technology (from the SL-1000R) that should reduce vibrations and lower noise.

ΔΣ-Drive
For me the biggest news was the 1300G's delta-sigma drive system: a digital rotational control technology that, according to Technics, suppresses microvibrations.

According to the Technics website: "The ΔΣ-Drive uses delta-sigma conversion technology to reduce errors in the drive signals, obtaining low distortion drive signals through highly precise PWM generation technology. It also helps to reduce the minor rotational inaccuracies and minute vibrations that cannot be picked up with wow and flutter or S/N ratios."

This noise-reducing technology is assisted in its tasks by Technics' Multi-Stage Silent Power Supply, which features active noise canceling.

The result of these new technologies, as I describe in my auditioning below, is a modestly priced record player that performs (noise-, speed-stability-, and momentum-wise) like those big-ticket luxury decks.

Tonearm questions
Even if you've never owned a turntable, even if you can't assemble an IKEA bed frame, if you diligently follow the directions in the 1300G's owner's manual, you will end up with a precisely aligned cartridge on a properly set-up turntable.

But there is one detail that needs some elucidation.

My Nagaoka MP-200 cartridge measures 18.5mm high. Dynavector's XX-2A cartridge measures 18.7mm, my Ortofon 2M Black measures 18mm, and my Goldring E3 measures 17.29mm. The 1300G's manual instructs users to "Adjust the arm height until the tonearm becomes parallel to the record." Under that instruction is an illustration showing an arrow pointing at the middle of the tonearm tube. But wait! Is that instruction correct?

With Nagaoka's MP-200 and the arm at its lowest setting ("0"), the 1300G's tonearm tube was conspicuously higher in the back and could not be lowered further. The Nagaoka is a pretty standard 18mm-high cartridge and if it won't level, which cartridges will?

Then, while I was VTA-vexing, it struck me: The engineers at Technics have been designing turntables longer than almost anybody, and they've sold millions, so it's likely they know more about turntable setup than I do. This thought urged me to a closer study of the 1300G's owner's manual, wherein I discovered a chart telling me that with an 18mm cartridge I should set the tonearm's height dial at 4mm. This seemed counterintuitive, but I tried it, and as I expected, the back of the tonearm looked even higher. However! While I was fretting to Spin Doctor Michael Trei about what I perceived as Technics' VTA issues, he instructed me to use a clear acrylic phono alignment block and train my eye on the top of the cartridge body, not the armtube, or the top of the headshell.

When I placed the sloped-top Technics headshell against Acoustic Signature's 15mm-thick alignment block, the top of the MP-200's body was parallel to the record surface. For decades I'd been eyeballing armtubes against the top of the record because that's where I thought I should start when setting vertical tracking angles. Now I use the alignment block, and a little bubble level designed to sit atop headshells.

I asked Bill Voss and he asked Technics' CTO, Mr. Tadayoshi Okuda, "Does the 1300G's platter sit 3mm higher than previous Technics platters?" Mr. Okuda replied, "It is the same platter as the SL-1200G's except for the presence or absence of the strobe dot."

The 1300G tonearm has an aluminum tube, so I asked, "Other than the magnesium pipe on the 1200G, is everything else on the 1300G's arm the same as the 1200G's?"

Tadayoshi Okuda replied: "The tonearm is almost the same as the SL-1200GR2's, however, the VTA is lowered by 3mm compared to the GR2. The reason for this is to accommodate the lower height type of cartridges."

As I expected, Mr. Okuda, Michael Trei, and the Technics owner's manual were right. But that wasn't the end of the lessons. Clever Trei pointed out two setup details that I had never considered. First was that tightening any H4 headshell with only a top pin can, and often will, raise the front of the headshell—sometimes by one or two degrees—making the headshell not exactly parallel to the armtube. When I checked for this on the Technics, I observed that when I tightened the 1300G's headshell collet as much as I could, the headshell did not appear to move.

Doing that reminded me of the first rule of all mechanical work: Never assume.


Footnote 1: Panasonic Corporation of America, Two Riverfront Plaza, Newark, NJ 07102. Tel: (201) 348-7000. Web: technics.com.

Footnote 2: See youtube.com/watch?v=suL4deekMpE.

Footnote 3: See av.jpn.support.panasonic.com/support/technics/ downloads.

ARTICLE CONTENTS

COMMENTS
Ortofan's picture

... a "budget" reference turntable?

HR ought to evaluate the $1,100 Technics SL-100C, which includes an Audio-Technica AT-VM95C cartridge. HR gave a favorable review to the AT-VM95C in this column:
https://www.stereophile.com/content/gramophone-dreams-44-audio-technica-goldring-lp-gear-phono-cartridges

https://us.technics.com/products/direct-drive-turntable-sl-100c

Glotz's picture

'reference', he used.

This deck is superior to the SL-1000C at 1/3rd the price because of the very reasons Herb put forth- reduction of resonances, ability to mine details and direct-drive rhythm. His other references are way higher in cost.

It is also a very solid and trustworthy review.

Ortofan's picture

... would you rather have the SL-1300G, or the SL-100C and $2K worth of LPs?

Glotz's picture

Definitely, truthfully, the 1300G.

With all turntables, along with the tonearm, is the potential foundation for sound and dictates how well the cartridge sounds. It's really, very critical in getting really top-quality sound.

The extra resonance control is really the separating factor for the delicate detail retrieval, all too hard to do at lower price points (and the very reason why people upgrade in analog).

And I agree with Herb that Technics spends huge time and effort into readily hearing audible differences that they engineer to and only sell what would be readily heard as different to the consumer.

As a side note, if Technics feels it's an appreciable difference, it's my job as a listener to find and verify those claims. If I don't hear them, I am doing something wrong- Not Technics (or Herb for that matter).

DaveinSM's picture

SL-100c and $2k worth of LPs. All day. And it has auto lift, something the SL-1300g apparently does not. Bound to save some cartridge wear and just plain convenient

DaveinSM's picture

I’d like to see a review of that turntable too

rpeluso's picture

I just placed an order for one , based partly on this review. Also a Sumiko Starling to go with it. Anticipation is sky high at the moment.

Ortofan's picture

... $3,300 turntable make sense?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfNlz5x-O5M

rpeluso's picture

Once I have it here and set up, you can come and listen for yourself vs an opinion from a video. It sure makes sense to me. And seriously, why do you care how I make decisions and choices?

Ortofan's picture

... comparison between the turntable and cartridge you have on order and the $1K more expensive Technics SL-1200G (with the magnesium tonearm) and a $1K less expensive cartridge, such as the Audio-Technica AT-OC9XSL or the Sumiko Songbird.

Perhaps a Stereophile reviewer could solicit the opinions of Bill Voss and Tadayoshi Okuda in that regard.

Metalhead's picture

Being an ok boomer and remembering the days when the focus was almost entirely on the cartridge selection and barely a mention of the sonic impact of the tonearm and deck I can understand your rationale for the cartridge.
In any event congratulations on your purchase and hope you happy spinning,.

InotI's picture

Hi,Herb.

I posted a comment on the page where you described your home brew Nagaoka MP-200 saying that I tried the MP-200 stylus on the MP-110 body and didn't think it sounded good. I suggested that you try a genuine MP-200. In the present article, you say you use a $509 MP-200, which implies that you bought the real thing. Is this so? If so, did you discover, as I did, that the genuine MP-200 sounds much better than the MP-200 stylus on an MP-110 body?

Herb Reichert's picture

I am still using my "engine swap" Nagaoka.

I call it a $509 MP-200 because that is what it will cost you to have one.

And besides, I truly love the way mine sounds.

herb

InotI's picture

Thanks for the reply, Herb.

I am glad you like your hybrid MP-200. But I still encourage you to buy a genuine MP-200. I think they are around $400 on ebay, up from $350 just a couple of months ago. The improvement over the hybrid is significant, particularly in the clarity of the high frequencies.

A Jelco HS-25 headshell (magnesium alloy, two pins) will also improve the sound on your Technics turntable. The LPGear Zupreme was made by Jelco.

For what it's worth.

Herb Reichert's picture

Before I spend $400 of my own money, please help me find any concrete evidence to suggest the 'real' MP200 has a different coil than the MP110.

I searched long and hard but could not find any facts to support the MP200 coil as being different than the 110's.

Otherwise what make's MP200 sound improved?

Thanks in advance for any help you can supply.

peace and great midranges

herb

InotI's picture

Hi again, Herb.

The only evidence I know of that might point to the fact that the Nagaoka MP-200 and MP-110 have different engines (my term) is that the output voltage for the MP-200 is 4 mV and the output voltage for the MP-110 is 5 mV.

Another fact to consider is that the MP-200 and MP-300 have basically the same stylus, nude elliptical on a boron cantilever, but they have different output voltages and the MP-300 is more expensive. If all of the Nagaoka cartridges used the same engine, why would the MP-300 exist?

Finally, LP Gear, the site where you probably got the $509 price for the MP-200 adds the following to the Nagaoka cartridge descriptions:

Note: Nagaoka created the MP cartridges for use with their specified stylus. Thus using a MP200 stylus (JNP200) with a MP150 cartridge may upgrade its sound quality (SQ) BUT will not turn it into a MP200 cartridge. Same for the MP100 and MP110, MP300 and MP500.

It's of course up to you if you want to shell out for a genuine MP-200 and see if this crackpot is right when he says it sounds better than an MP-200 stylus on an MP-110 body.

As a reviewer, you are perhaps in the unique situation of getting products for free that you can keep. Maybe your SL-1300G was a freebie. Most of us have to pay to try new products, so we do so within the budget range we can afford or at least justify. For example, I bought the SL-1200Mk7 when it came out in 2019 for $900 because I knew it was the sort of turntable I would enjoy for years. I was right! I didn't even consider the SL-1200GR or SL-1200G because they were more expensive and, in the case of the GR, there was little to justify the extra price (same tonearm, same drive system as the Mk7).

Incidentally, as I've tried to tell you before, I am very happy with two products you reviewed positively, both of which were good values too. They are the Schiit Aegir (OG) amplifier [was $800] and the Denafrips Ares II DAC [was $850].

I also built a DIY ACA Mini amplifier [$130!], based on your mention of it. You said you'd review it, but I don't think you did. In any case, it was a fun project (so fun I built a second one!), and it sounds very good with my largest speakers. Unfortunately it doesn't drive bookshelf speakers very well, maybe due to the low damping factor (10).

Enough, enough! Just enjoying having your ear and being able to thank you for some good recommendations.

If you try a genuine MP-200, let us know. If you choose not to, no problem.

Best wishes from California,

Bruce

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