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It would be good to know, probably more important to know what the power draw in standby is, when the equipment is not in use.
Cars rate energy use as miles per gallon (MPG), but what about audio equipment? Reader "wook" wants to know: "Would you like <I>Stereophile</I>'s reviews to include power-draw measurements?"
Yes, power draw measurements are very important, especially when the equipment is supposedly turned off. When are manufacturers going to learn that we can no longer afford to have their products constantly using electricity? That's one of the things I especially like about most tube gear: when it's off, it's really off.
By this time of global warming and energy shortage, it is a very important criterion. And also, and maybe more important for my (our)satisfaction, high sensitivity speakers and low power or good Class D amps can be more pleasant and accurate to my ears than hyper expensive and power pumping solid state powerhouses (these last ones are definitely dinosaurs, still good and impressive maybe, but condemned to shortly disappear.
Most of the time, manufacturer specifications provide power consumption. What really matters (if you're into that sort of thing), is effeciency. Inefficiency is directly proportional to the radiated heat. Generally, tubed components and cetainly class A amps are inefficient while class AB, B and D are more efficient. That being said, people who purchase tubed or class A components aren't doing so for the efficiency and power consumption would be a useless number. Of course, you'd also have to consider the practice of leaving the component "on" 24/7 and factor that into your power draw equation... Unless the manufacturer specifications for power consuption are vastly different from measurements, the measurement will be superfluous (in addition to being useless). This is sort of like trying to ensure the claimed MPG ratings on things like Hummers, Ferraris and Abrams Tanks are accurate...vehicles like these aren't purchased for efficiency. I use Monster AVS 2000's for the home theater and main stereo rig. If you use a component like this, you see the instantaneous current draw (and this is what we pay for...it is suprising how much current is drawn by my 42 inch LCD in comparison to the Classe' CA-301). If Wook is truly interested, he should purchase a similar item and multiply (voltage X amperage = watts). Watts X time(hours)/1000=kilowatt-hours.