Awesome! I'll look for the photos.

I'm guessing that it *probably* wont cost you 7,500.00 to make.

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For those of you that don't cruise the entry level forum... I have been planing a DIY Rack for a while. My dad and I finally got started on it today.

The design is based off of SRA's Craz 4 rack.
http://www.soundstage.com/revequip/silentrunning_craz_4.htm

We are using high quality maple for all of the wood on the rack and shelf supports. The Shelves will be 19x19in laminated MDF and will be connected to the rack by 3 downward pointing spikes.

Today we finished all of the shelf support frames. Tomorrow we will pick up the lumber for the 4 supporting beams and prepare all of the mortis and tenon joints that will hold the shelf support frames to the support beams of the rack.

I forgot to bring a camera out to the shop today but I will try to post some pictures tomorrow night for those of you that are interested.

That's a lot of wood how may racks are you building? I'm looking forward to seeing the finished results.

Cool! Awesome work.

If yall have any sort of blueprint/plans developed, id love to buy a copy of them.

Make sure to add some of these to the DIY Gallery when you are finished. I can't wait to see the end result.

I think that you should have an excellent unit there when done; I hope you are not planning on using glass for shelves...I probably missed any comments you made re shelves; the thicker and heavier the better for the shelves (oh...I see the shelf information now...sorry).

I have to laugh when I see all of these units that are metal with glass shelves; talk about asking for trouble with harmful resonances...yikes!!!

Personally, I put my gear on a unit 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide that was made 40 years ago as a room divider; it has walnut veneer over extremely dense high-quality particle board; very heavy. It seems to be sufficiently inert to resist resonances pretty well (especially with the weight of a lot of equipment on it).

If one really wants a unit that will be acoustically inert, I have a suggestion:

Take a bunch of SOLID concrete blocks (not the kind with holes in the center), 16" x 8" x 4", painted black, ends facing to the front, and stack them at the left, center, and right end of some solid hardwood boards 18" x 2" x 60", and alternate first two blocks in each stack, then a board, then two more blocks in each stack, then another board, etc.

This gives you a stand so massive and inert that concern about vibrations will be almost a total non-issue. It's not all that expensive, either (but perhaps a bit heavy for weak floors...lol). It is also easy for anyone to make with no tools or talent whatsoever.

Very nice! Too bad so much of the tiger striping will be covered with your shelves.

It look really beautiful, I'm jealous.

Great work- and a lot of it, I know! Nice to see someone else doing some DIY stuff around here with such attention to quality and finish.

Very Nice. I am in the mood to build something now.

That's a 2400 pro power envelope amp. I've owned two and modified both. That's a.. er..1155 preamp, I believe.

NAD is good solid gear.

And the thing you can't say to a woman without getting a kick in the boys..'that's a nice rack!".

Ben-

If ANYONE makes fun of your system or your rack (especially your rack) as far as I'm concerned you can tell them to take a flying leap! Especially for a college student that's an incredible set up. You have every right to be proud.

Very nice work and terrific end result. The finish looks great in the photos.

Pay attention to the skills your father has, depending on your major you might need a trade to fall back on.

Tell your dad his work is appreciated and have fun with your new equipment stand.

What's the surface of the floor? If it's carpeting the spikes should pierce the carpet and go to the flooring below. The only time that you'd want to use something between the spikes and the flooring is if you didn't want the flooring damaged, such as wood floor or vinyl/tile.

There appears to be some amount of gloss to the wood. Did you put a sealing finish over the stain?

Very nice!

Did you use a sanding sealer on the wood before the lacquer? Or did it take four coats to get even coverage without a sealer?

Lots of work! But it looks very nice.

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I guess I should have said cones. I was talking about the shelves. I have the cones resting on dimes instead of making direct contact with the wood.

My instinct would be to say that the cones should make direct contact with the frame to better channel vibrations away from the component. The dime adds acoustic impedance which would reduce the speed and efficiency of the dissipation of the vibrations. Now if there were metal in set and and affixed to the frame matters might be different. But you might listen with and without the dimes and see what you think sounds best. That's what I'd do because it should be a pretty straight forward test.

Very nice work!

Beautiful work !

Great craftsmanship! Good luck.

I know I'm a couple of years late to the party. But any chance you can send me the used thickness for the wood (exspecially the studs, I assume 12/4 or 16/4) or plans. So that I can attempt to build this?

thanks and I highly appreciate it.

Great work

Mass, rigidity and stability are the enemy of sound, not the friends. The more instability there is in the stand, the easier it is to move in any direction, like Flexy Rack, the better the isolation against structural vibration will be. The structural vibration act in many directions, a stable rack or stand will simple move along with the rest of the building.

Great work, admire the design and dedication