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Just changed the outlet to a hospital-grade one. I live in a 120-year-old house, so I know that many mods could be done, but the line conditioner does enough with the new outlet.
Reader Sean Stewart reports that every time he goes to Hudson's in Albuquerque and watches their lights flicker while driving their Nautilus 801s, he wonders about what audiophiles do to customize their AC supplies to improve performance.
I use API Power Wedge II with upgraded LAT AC-2 power cord. LAT AC-2 power cords are used for amp, transport and DAC. AudioQuest power-cord mod used for preamp. The API alone reduces background noise and improves detail. The LAT power cords provide extraordinary improvement in many areas: dynamics, bass resolution, imaging, high-frequency extension.
I've used a few different ones, Adcom's, Monster's, but none of the expensive ones (Buying MUSIC is more important)and have heard an improvement with all that I've used...but never put amps on a conditioner...I don't know about the multi-buck ones, but I like what I hear until I've tried the amps in the enhancers!
When I built my latest sound room, I added some special power cable all the way from the electrical panel. Of course, I have a separate circuit for CD and amplifiers. I also use Chang power conditioners for everything as well. Like they advertise: If the equipment was drinking water, our power would be like drinking from a sewer.
You bet yer bippy! First, I coated the ground plug with green highlighter. Then I plugged a digital clock into an adjouning outlet. The result: Faster electricity (aka quicker transients, deeper soundstage, enhanced bloom). Hahahahahahaha.
I am using Transparent Reference Power Cables on my amplifiers and preamp. I am also using Super Power Cables on my source equipment. I am not sure if I notice much difference, but I intend to purchase a Transparent Powerlink XL. If anyone out there knows anything about these products, please e-mail me. I would love to get some advice.
Prepped up by using the AudioPrism NoiseSniffer on all outlets, then placing AudioPrism Quietline line filters (Mk.II) on all outlets; added the PS Audio P300 Power Plant for source components and Shunyata Research Cobra and Black Mamba power cords on all components. Result? Noise floor way down, blackness and clarity/dynamics way up. Music more intoxicating and addicting.
The money you spend protecting your equipment is worth every penny! I lived in an apartment and was hit by a surge in the middle of the night. It was very clear that it was a back surge (not lightning). A great deal of my equipment was damaged. I called the power company and they told me to talk to my insurance company. Luckily I had apartment insurance, but I had a $500 deductible. Of course, they "adjusted" my equipment so of the $1850 (I paid) worth of stuff was adjusted to $1120, and because of the deductible, I received a check for only $620. Here is the amusing part: My old Pioneer Elite receiver, Pioneer Elite CD player, and Sony SVHS VCR were all connected to a $25 surge protector. The damn thing did not trip, filter, or protect anything!!! Now all the while my little mini JVC system and computer that was connected to my Exide Powerware UPS was fine and dandy! I now own a 60" Mitsubishi HDTV-ready, Sony ES-555 receiver, Sony 560D DVD player, Mitsubishi HDTV converter, and Sony DSS receiver. So you bet your butt that I am going to protect it all. Since I now own a home, my deductible is $1100, therefore spending up to $400 to protect it is VERY reasonable and logical!!! I plan to buy the MonsterPower HTS2500 to protect my equipment. P.S. My Exide UPS is now protecting my NAD receiver, Pioneer Elite PDF19 changer, Pioneer PDR509 recorder, and Pioneer tape deck. I bought a cheap APC UPS for the computer.
I use six separate AC circuits, each conditioned with two iso transformers outputting balanced power. I additionally use a PS Audio Power Plant with Multiwave interfaced between the isos and the front end. I additionally condition the six stereo amps in the system with inductive and capacitative filters that I build myself.