http://www.vandersteen.com/pages/Answr7.htm

Depends. On some speakers you may be able to detect a slight difference, especially if the cables are good. Not much to gain though if you ask me, but give it a listen!

Dave Wilson would likely land in the "don't do it" camp...

From an old Stereophile review....

"The lack of a bi-wiring option is common to Wilson Audio loudspeakers, but it's not a cost-saving measure; Wilson is apparently not a proponent of bi-wiring..."

Welcome to the forum.

Concerning biwiring, It might make a difference if the speakers are of a lower efficiency. Other than that, no big audible difference IMHO.

Mark

Quote:
Welcome to the forum.

Mark

Damn! Where were my manners?

Yes, welcome to the forum!

As per personal use...

I think my ribbon speakers sound better biwired (which would fit with Mark's description) but have not noted a significant benefit with my other types of speakers.

Welcome, again.

Of course. I ran biwiring with my old speakers, but the improvement was much bigger when I switched to expensive speaker cable. Expensive, well... $6

It does depend on the speakers. Some crossovers desings will work great with bi wiring, some designs cannot be split at all.

With my B&W CDM1 monitors there was a big difference but i will and do attribute this change for the better to removing the awful jumper.

Try this experiment. If your speakers came with jumpers, try hooking your single run wires to the bass inputs, then try the treble inputs. In more then a few speakers that I have tried there is a big diference in sound depending On which input your driving. The shorting bar or wire is just a poor conductor an you loose quality to the "other" input.

They say you should use the same wire as your speaker cable for the shorting plug and that might indeed work better. So a sible run of speaker wire to the bass drivers and a short run of the same wire to the treble drivers. I have not tried this myself.

Bi wiring does work form me.

Tom...

Noticible jump in clarity biwiring Harbeths and Spendors. Tried better jumpers and tried upper and lower pairs of terminals to decide which way worked better with single pair wiring. Gave up fiddling around when I heard how much clearer biwiring sounded than anything I was doing with a single pair. YMMV.

Here is my experience. I have a pair of Apogee Mini Grands. We used these for our NFS Audio room at the 2011 THE Show. The week before the show, in my home, they sounded glorious!
I had found a Harmon Kardon Citation II amp a few months prior which I sent to Bob Carver for and upgrade (KT 120 tubes in a pure pentode mode at 115 WPC) to handle the Mini Grand's. This amp came in the day before the show. Since it only has screw-type speaker terminals, I hooked up the Apogees with a single wire and bridged the terminals on the speakers. The Mini Grands were shrill, sibilant, with no midrange. We swapped out pre-amps, amps, tubes, and I even swapped out the ribbon tweeter for one that is not as thin/fast (Graz's KLM5 from his XLM5). I could not get the same sound I had at home just the week before. Changes in speaker placement and a few other room sound tweeks helped some, but no cigar. After the THE Show, I installed everthing back up, using the HK Citation II with single wire. Still, the Apogees sounded shrill and thin. Finally, after three months, a synapse clicked...Biwire! I installed some nice 3-way binding posts on the Citation II and hooked up the Apogees in their original Biwire mode. The music fell back into place. The shrill/sibilance disappeared. I put the XLM5 ribbons back into the Apogees.
I can't fully understand why, but for the Apogees, Biwiring makes a huge difference. Jason Bloom was right.
I guess this is a long winded way of saying that it may be worth a try.
Mike

If the speakers sections are wired seperately and you use cables that actually make a diffeence, like MIT, which have specially tuned networks for each section, then it makes a HUGE difference!  It still amazes me how so many people keep playing with plain wires expecting to hear a difference that is substantially better than any other cable.  Of course I went through the same process, listening to reviewers and other knuckleheads that would have you believe plain wire can deal with the real world problems a signal faces when travelling through an audio system.  But don't trust me.....get some decent MIT cables and demo them at home for 30 days.  Opinions will only distract and confuse you...try them yourself.

YMMV for sure.  Combine "hot" cables with "hot" metal tweeters and results may disappoint.  However, the same trick may correctly "tune" other weaknesses in some speakers.  

I'm breaking the rules by using old Monster Cable stranded 12ga for my Paradigm's woofers and AudioQuest AQ-4 for the mids and tweeter.  If I ever get ambitious, I'll have t swap them around for a test.  I'd really prefer to attach a good, tubed, power amp to one end of the AQ-4s and bi-amp.

Bye!

Honestly, I don't it used all that much. I can't recall do any serious testing though. It's much less a tried and true concept that even the already contentious issue of upgraded speaker wires (which I strongly believe makes an obvious audible difference, up to a point). I think the effeciency thing maybe could be the ticket, especially with say, a hybrid cone/electrostatic model.

I'm curious actually, and could try it on my speakers, but tyhen I'd have to use cheaper spare wire and that would add a whole other variable. Otherwise, since I do use upgraded wire it comes down to being to expensive to have two sets of wire.